Most literature concurs that the variety's origins lie in Hungary, in the Tokaj wine region. The earliest records of it differ; it is mentioned in the wine region in 1571 and 1623. It was an important variety, once widespread across the entire country, thus also cultivated in what are today neighbouring regions, such as Syrmia or Burgenland, albeit in smaller amounts. It is related to Gouais Blanc and therefore also to Riesling and Chardonnay.
It can be found in minute quantities in Austria, around Lake Neusiedl and especially around Rust, where it forms the basis for dry and sweet wines, for example Ruster Ausbruch. It is known as Sipon in Slovenia in reference to the Napoleonic legend.
In Hungary lately, there has not only been more discussion about the variety, but it can also be found in increasing numbers of wine regions, albeit in tiny amounts. Nowadays, it is cultivated on a total of 3,950 hectares. Of course, it's most widespread in the Tokaj wine region, where it accounts for 65% of plantings, followed by Somló and then the northern shore of Lake Balaton.
The variety generally produces relatively full-bodied wines with high acidity. Its neutral character also means that its dry wines are able to reflect terroir extremely well, especially in the abovementioned areas, while in the case of sweet wines, botrytis provides the foundation for extremely complex Aszú wines in the Tokaj wine region. Its aromas are characterised by quince, peach and apricot.
A touch of residual sugar is sometimes left in dry wines to offset the high acidity. It can also be blended with other varieties, such as Hárslevelű or even, where permitted, Olaszrizling. When complemented by the sweet spicy notes of oak ageing, it is an extremely complex variety that has proven its place among other noble varieties.