Its exact origin is unknown, although some sources consider it one of the oldest varieties in Tokaj. It almost disappeared completely after phylloxera and only received state authorisation again in the late 1990s. While others associate the variety with great certainty to Romania, where it is called Grasa de Cotnari (grasa means fat, oily) and is the region's most important variety.
Records in Tokaj also mention it from the 16th and 17th century, with some sources differentiating between Fehérszőlő and Kövérszőlő – recent documents treat them as synonymous – thus further complicating its origins. According to old records, Fehérszőlő was not considered to shrivel much. The choice of name is likely to indicate round berries and a strong tendency to botrytise.
Nowadays, there are less than 700 hectares cultivated, most of which can be founded in north-eastern Romania, in the Cotnari region, in the Moldovan hills. This is an extremely cool region, with an average annual temperature of 9°C, annual rainfall of 500 mm and chernozem soils. The region is known for its sweet wines and the Grasa grapes are blended with other varieties such as Tamaioasa or Muscat.
In Hungary, it is only really found in the Tokaj wine region, where it is cultivated on around 50 hectares. Although plantings have increased slightly in the region in the last decade. It most often ends up in Aszú, but a handful of producers are also experimenting with it as a monovarietal wine. Thanks to Tokaj's volcanic soils and the climatic conditions, it is a botrytis magnet in the right vintages.
Since it is most often encountered in blends and especially in sweet wines, it is difficult to get a clear picture of the variety itself. According to tasting notes, it is generally dominated by notes of ripe fruit. As a sweet wine, it is characterised by honey, hazelnut, dried apricot and propolis; however, these are more indicative of botrytis than the variety. The variety may even constitute up to 10-20% of an Aszú blend.