It is an ancient, probably Western European variety, which is shrouded in many myths and legends. Some sources say the variety's origin can be linked to Egypt, others to the town of Tramin in Alto Adige. There are many mutations, often distinguished according to berry colour, such as Roter (red), Gelber (yellow) and Gewürz (spicy). Gewürztraminer is a mutation of Roter Traminer, which is less aromatic, and this is probably the most widespread of the varieties in Hungary. However, the 'spicy' prefix is missing from the national variety catalogue. There is only one hectare of Roter Traminer registered in Hungary.
Top-quality dry, sweet and vineyard selected wines are produced from the variety in Alsace, France. Although it is an extremely aromatic variety, it is also adept at reflecting terroir. It is a real sugar pump and is characterised by high alcohol, a full body, often significant natural sweetness and pronounced aromatics yet somewhat soft acidity. It prefers the warmer south in Germany, so is most common in Baden and the Pfalz. In Austria, it is often found on the volcanic soils of Styria, for example in Klöch, where it boasts pronounced rose petal and spicy notes, and is often produced in a style with some residual sugar.
There are 745 hectares of Traminer recorded in Hungary. It is found in the greatest proportions in the Pannonhalma and Neszmély wine districts, while there are also nearly 300 hectares planted in the Mátra wine district. Small amounts are found in almost all wine districts. It thrives on volcanic soils and in cooler regions, where it can retain high acidity and freshness as well as reflect the unique style of its terroir in a similar way to Alsace. When grown in regions where it can retain higher acidity, it usually yields better balanced wines.
The variety generally produces wines with high alcohol and low acidity. It is an aromatic variety which produces extremely expressive, perfumed wines with floral, rose, tropical and spicy notes. Some residual sugar suits the variety, which can produce wines with a wide range of sweetness levels. Its pinkish skin gives a darker hue to the wines. Despite its oily texture and aromatic character, it is an adept reflect of terroir.